Cultured Pearl Onyx
Affluent Page Presents: Bulgari 125 Years
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A glimpse into the Italian jewelry empire’s journey.
By Ariel Jastromb
Global jewelry houses seek prowess, prestige, and a dedicated following, utilizing signature styles and top-quality stones, settings, and designs. Bulgari shines in their masterly dedication to all of the above. Known for outstanding gem quality and daring pieces, Bulgari stands apart from other European houses working in the French tradition. Sotirio Bulgari,the house’s Greek founder and silversmith, has decided to forgo the subtleties of French composition, favoring the bold Greco-Roman aesthetic.
Bulgari celebrates its legacy at the Grand Palais in Paris for the exhibit Bulgari: 125 Ans de Magnificence Italienne beginning December 10-it’s clearly time to take a look at the house’s greatest hits. From its founding in 1884 to the current collection, the house’s journey of distinction, brilliance, and class deserves the spotlight of attention and appreciation that this exhibit will shine upon it.
During its first 26 years, Bulgari consisted mainly of intricate silverwork completed by Sotirio Bulgari himself. The firstBulgari store in Rome, where the flagship still stands, offered pieces such as bracelets, necklaces, and elaborate objets d’art. The Greco-Roman coin is and still remains a key symbol of Bulgari and was widely incorporated into the earliercollections.
The company forged into the 1920s and ’30s with Sotirio’s sons, Giorgio and Costantino, at the helm. Bulgari’s treasuresbegan to feature Art Deco designs with architectural lines, gold and bright-colored gemstones. Many of their works havenever been seen, including a platinum-and-diamond brooch from 1928 that depicted a gorgeous flower encircled by aring. One could conceive the ring as an extension of the coin motif, growing ever more abstract with each decade, onlyto revert to the original later on. Subtle chandelier earrings and bejeweled cuffs emblazoned with rubies and sapphiresexemplified and introduced the character of the Bulgari woman-a bold, courageous woman proud of her femininityand willing to indulge her desire for opulence. “Bulgari’s women” included such stars as Ingrid Bergman, Sophia Loren, Anna Magnani, and Gina Lollobrigida-not to mention Elizabeth Taylor, a longtime collector. Bulgari’s connection with the film industry began in the 1940s, reaching into the ’50s and ’60s, captivating these beautiful women along the way. One highlight from the time period is the Parure collection (formed by a necklace, bracelet, pendant earrings, and a ring), done in platinum with the finest turquoise and diamonds. Another would be the Tremblant collection of flowery brooches, inspired by the French trend prevalent in jewelry at the time.
The ’50s also saw the rise of Bulgari’s use of cabochons, shaped and polished gemstones as opposed to the moretraditional faceted ones. Cabochons carry striking color and size, matching the intensity of Bulgari’s aesthetic. The cabochons incited a revolution of color at the house, complementing the Pop movement of the ’60s and ’70s. Veruschka and Marisa Berenson, top models at the time, defined the face of this bolder, badder Bulgari woman. A gold collar necklace from 1979 exemplifies the power of the cabochon, with deep rubies surrounded by sapphires, diamonds, and rare lapis lazuli. It was accompanied by dramatic pendant earrings in platinum and gold, circa 1966, which feature carved jade with rubies and sapphires.
The explosion of color inspired loyal clients and collectors, particularly Elizabeth Taylor. The timeline of her tempestuous relationship with Richard Burton could be marked by her collection of Bulgari treasures, including the 18-carat emerald brooch Burton gave to Taylor for their engagement in 1962. Matching Colombian drop-emerald earrings, a bracelet, necklace and an enormous ring are some of the finest Bulgari ever created. Deep forest-green emeralds surrounded by multitudes of diamonds became synonymous with Bulgari-the house that satisfied Taylor’s lavish tastes. Another Taylor treasure is a 1961 yellow-gold watch shaped like a snake, witha head and tail crafted from diamonds and striking emerald eyes. Taylor was seen wearing the piece on the set of 1962′s Cleopatra in Rome. Perhaps one of Bulgari’s most stunning feats, the 25 carats of sugarloaf sapphire cabochons and diamonds from 1971 once resided on Taylor’s delicate finger.
Some of Bulgari’s most famous jewels are remembered for their iconic status and themes, like the coin jewelry, the serpent motif, and the BVLGARI logo consumers recognize today. The famous Grimaldi family owns a variety of these signature pieces, including a heavy, gold chain-link necklace decorated with a large coin that once belonged to Grace Kelly. Former Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue editor Diana Vreeland owned a stunning serpent belt made in 1970, fashioned from gold with white, pink and beige enamel and arresting sapphire eyes. The serpent found itself reimagined in colors like cobalt blue with diamond eyes and a forked tongue plunging from the serpent’s throat.
In the 1970s, the house introduced courageous pop-inspired pieces, which allowed the brand to expand and experiment. The quality never wavered, but designs, like a brooch with a heart, club, spade and diamond, or a large Buddha pendant on a necklace, were injected with humor. One platinum flower brooch, circa 1968, showcased both colorless and vibrantcolored diamonds, which became increasingly popular.
These design achievements cemented Bulgari’s status as the go-to jeweler for movers and shakers in all industries. The ’80s and ’90s saw Nancy Reagan in Bulgari’s creations, as well as society mavens of all types. Bulgari’s Kilim bracelet, circa 1988, weighs in at 22.23 carats and features three sugarloaf cabochon emeralds, amethysts, rubies, cultured pearls and diamonds-the ultimate in luxury. The brand has also appealed to men with its timepieces, watches and, for example, a gold table clock, with onyx, mother-of-pearl, jade, and diamonds, circa 1980. This objet d’art is decorated with two traditional 19th-century Chinese buckles carved in two-color jadeite-probably remnants of Bulgari’s former stock of fine Chinese jade objects.
Bulgari’s mass appeal to those with impeccable taste continues to this day, extending to its latest offerings. This collection combinesBulgari’s rich history with modern sensibilities, reflecting the boldness of Elizabeth Taylor and the subtlety of Grace Kelly in an astonishing display of color, design, and beauty. The absolutely breathtaking pieces include cocktail rings, most notably a whitegoldconfection with a 19.27-carat, color-changing, sugarloaf sapphire; 2.12 carats of 24 buff-top rubies; four cabochon-cut turquoises; and 2.30 carats of four brilliant round diamonds and pav-set diamonds that flank the sides of the ring. Those looking for Elizabeth Taylor-inspired flare will be more than satisfied by a dazzling necklace in yellow gold with seven cushioncut sapphires weighing in at 34.93 carats, three cabochon-cut emeralds at 34.75 carats; 15.12 carats of 14 emerald beads; 11.18 carats of 23 round brilliant diamonds; and 10.32 carats of round brilliant-cut and pav diamonds. Remarkable yellow-gold post earrings that look like lotus blossoms feature two yellow sapphires totaling 18.17 carats, onyx, and turquoise inserts; and 1.35 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds. A Bulgari today is a piece of history. The new catalogue’s impressive collection is the next chapter in the chronicle of what makes a Bulgari a Bulgari.
Bulgari, 212.315.9000, www.bulgari.com
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CL by Design Black Onyx and Cultured Freshwater Pearl Cl…
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Genuine Cultured Pearl Black Onyx Sterling Silver Necklace Bracelet Earring SET $25.99 |
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RARE 23 INCH GOLDEN JAPANESE CULTURED PEARL GRADUATED NECKLACE BLACK ONYX BEADS $1,995.00 |
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BEAUTIFUL BLACK ONYX & CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE $10.00 |
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New Hagit Gorali Sterling Silver,Onyx and Cultured Pearl Cuff Size Average $130.00 |
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7-8mm white Akoya Cultured Pearl Onyx Necklace pendant 30″ PL-26 $10.50 |
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Chunky sterling silver ring with cultured pearl and onyx $150.00 |
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Cultured Freshwater Pearl & Black Onyx Sterling Silver Oval Ring 7 w/ Box HSN $104.50 |
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Cultured Freshwater Pearl and Black Onyx Earrings $22.99 |
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Vintage Simons Sterling Cultured Pearl Onyx & Amethyst 17″ Necklace w/Box QVC $136.80 |
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HAGIT GORALI STERLING BLACK ONYX & CULTURED PEARL CUFF BRACELET SIZE LARGE L NEW $164.18 |
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Freshwater Cultured Black Pearl & Onyx Bracelet 68384 $57.26 |
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ESTATE 1960’s 14K GOLD FANCY ONYX, AKOYA CULTURED PEARL & ROUND DIAMOND RING $435.00 |
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14K Gold 6mm White Cultured Pearl & Onyx Strand 17″ $189.99 |
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MULTICOLOR ONYX BEAD CULTURED FRESHWATER PEARL NECKLACE $19.38 |
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Sterling Silver Onyx/Crystals & FW Cultured Peacock Pearl Necklace. 16in long $138.99 |
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Beautiful 14K Gold Cultured Pearl Black Onyx Beaded BRACELET 14kt 7.3 grams $225.00 |
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24 INCH 7.3MM JAPANESE AKOYA CULTURED PEARL 4MM ROUND BLACK ONYX BEAD NECKLACE $1,235.00 |
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14k Gold 6-6.5mm White Cultured Pearl & Onyx Necklace $130.99 |
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VTG SS BLACK ONYX & FRESH WATER CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE $64.89 |
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SUNRISE SPIRIT~Onyx & Cultured Pearl Drop Earrings~.925 Silver~NOVICA Bali $39.95 |
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ART DECO 18 INCH 5 3/4MM AKOYA CULTURED WHITE PEARL BLACK ONYX BEAD NECKLACE $735.00 |
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Vintage 14K 6 mm Onyx Bead and Cultured Pearl Necklace $42.00 |
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14K YELLOW GOLD 11MM CULTURED PEARL & ONYX PENDANT $184.99 |
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Charming 7-8mm White Akoya Cultured Pearl Onyx Necklace $7.99 |
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STERLING CULTURED FRESHWATER PEARL ONYX DANGLE EARRINGS $23.99 |
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Cultured pearl and onyx pendant necklace, ‘Magical Moons’ (India) $69.95 Shanker captures the magic of a full moon night as a white Akoya pearl shines over faceted onyx. Set in sterling silver, the necklace is crafted by hand with artistic elegance. .925 Sterling silver |
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Cultured pearl and onyx pendant necklace Magical Moons (India) $69.95 Shanker captures the magic of a full moon night as a white Akoya pearl shines over faceted onyx. Set in sterling silver, the necklace is crafted by hand with artistic elegance. .925 Sterling silver |
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Onyx & Pearl Necklace $99.99 Compare at $246.00! Classic black and white… contrast in color, unity of style. You’ll love the versatility of our genuine onyx bead and cultured freshwater pearl necklace. Luminous pearls are interspersed with shiny black onyx to create this wear-with-everything design. And at 42″ long, you’ll also enjoy the wrapping it to work perfectly with any ensemble. Secures with a fish-hook clasp. Finished with 10k gold accents. Beads measure 6-12mm (0.24″ – 0.47″). Express delivery not available. Shipped directly from the manufacturer; please allow additional shipping time. |
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Aquarella Freshwater Pearl Genuine Onyx Earrings $336.49 Aquarella Freshwater Pearl Genuine Onyx Earrings Add a touch of class to any look with these classic freshwater pearl earrings. These sterling silver earrings are accented with genuine onyx and freshwater pearls for an elegant look. Sterling silver genuine onyx earrings. Specifications: .925 Sterling Silver, Polished, 10mm Genuine Onyx -Round Cab, 11mm Freshwater Cultured Pearls, 2.718 DWT ( 4.23 grams) Pearl Pierced Earrings |
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Swarovski Crystal and Cultured Pearl Croton Watch and Bracelet $198 Stainless steel triple strand Fresh Water Cultured Pearl Croton watch with surrounding Swarovski crystals. (268ED06W) 7.5″ 198. Comes with a matching free bracelet 4mm round Fresh Water Pearl beads Croton fine watches Mother of Pearl oval face and dial Silver- tone hands with a second hand Fold over locking clasp Brass 24x35mm case Japanese quartz movement Water resistant 3ATM Comes in a nice gift box Also available in Black Onyx version, please see below |
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Onyx and Pearl Drop Earrings $169 Onyx and Pearl Drop Earrings |
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Freshwater Pearl Onyx and Diamond Pendent Necklace $309 This lovely necklace features a 7mm cultured freshwater pearl surrounded by a row of diamonds and then by another row of onyx The two rows make a stunning contrast statement against the elegant white pearl You are sure to make a fashion statement with this chic necklace |
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Cultured Pearl Ring $140 11MM Cultured Pearl Ring. Yellow gold over sterling silver. |
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14kt 6mm Cultured Pearl Earrings $72 14kt gold post 6mm cultured pearl earrings. |
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Freshwater Pearl and Black Onyx Toggle Bracelet in Sterling Silver $298 Sterling silver shiny Black Onyx and Freshwater Cultured Pearl toggle bracelet with 14kt yellow gold accents and bead design. (268FD23B) 7 1/2″ 298. 9.5mm Fresh Water Cultured Pearls Shiny 10.5mm Black Onyx beads Sterling silver with an antique finish Weighs approx 33.5 grams Toggle clasp closure Matching earrings and necklace shown below Comes in a nice gift box |
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BareMinerals Glimpse – Cultured Pearl $18.09 BareMinerals Glimpse – Cultured Pearl by Bare Escentuals for Women – 0.02 oz Eye Color |
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14kt 4mm Cultured Pearl Earrings $50 14kt gold post 4mm round cultured pearl earrings. |
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8mm Akoya Cultured Pearl Stud Earrings $109 8mm Akoya Cultured Pearl Stud Earrings |
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6mm Freshwater Cultured Pearl Stud Earrings $49 6mm Freshwater Cultured Pearl Stud Earrings |
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Chisel Stainless Steel Cultured Pearl and CZ Earrings $69.99 Chisel Stainless Steel Cultured Pearl and CZ Earrings |
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Pearl and Black Onyx Bead Toggle Necklace in Sterling Silver and 14k Gold $498 Black and white, sterling silver Onyx and Pearl toggle necklace with 14kt yellow gold accents. Bali style beads add to the antiqued design. (268FD23N) 20″ 498 9.5mm Fresh Water Cultured Pearls 10.5mm shiny Black Onyx Beads Weighs approx 81.3 grams Toggle clasp is easy to use Comes in a nice gift box Matching bracelet and earrings shown below |
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Ce34-5B – Onyx And White Cultured Freshwater Pearl Leaf Petal Earrings. $47.17 [CG-CE34-5B] 1 LB |
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14k Gold Pearl and Black Onyx Wrap Around Necklace 38 $895 Faceted Black Onyx meets Fresh Water Cultured Pearls in this 14kt gold long necklace. Wrap twice or use as a pull over necklace. (185DC51N) 38+” 895 4.5mm round Black Onyx 7mm Fresh Water Pearls Weighs approx 12.2 grams Lobster claw clasp Comes in a nice gift box |
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Cultured pearl and amethyst dangle earrings, ‘Siam Chimes’ (Thailand) $32.95 Colors and textures dance in aesthetic harmony for the design of these earrings. From Withaya Cheunjit in Thailand, the sterling silver earrings are crafted by hand with amethyst, onyx, and an iridescent pink pearl. .925 Sterling silver. |
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Cultured pearl and amethyst dangle earrings Siam Chimes (Thailand) $32.95 Colors and textures dance in aesthetic harmony for the design of these earrings. From Withaya Cheunjit in Thailand, the sterling silver earrings are crafted by hand with amethyst, onyx, and an iridescent pink pearl. .925 Sterling silver. |
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Cultured Pearl Necklace – 16 1/2 " Center Drilled Pearl & Drop Freswater Cultured Pearl Necklace. $181 Cultured Pearl Necklace – 16 1/2 ” Center Drilled Pearl & Drop Freswater Cultured Pearl Necklace. is available from jewelbasket.com for only $125.00. Buy now and save. Jewelbasket offers the best value on Necklaces, jewelry and gifts. |
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Onyx White Quartz and Freshwater Pearl Necklace $209 Onyx White Quartz and Freshwater Pearl Dangle Nec |
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The Cultured Pearl $7.74 No Synopsis Available |